If you have a thing for butter chicken, find the longest queue at the International Food Fair, and at the front you'll find a rewarding lunch.

I tried the food at India Abroad based entirely on the telltale queue, which outflanked all others in the food court. It must be a cut above, I figured, and joined the elongated line.

India Abroad is run by Gurcharan Singh (cooking in the back) and Baljit Kir (serving in the front). Singh comes from a restaurant family, going back a couple of generations. His late father ran a high-end catering business in Moga in the Punjab and that's where Singh learned to cook.

Regulars say his butter chicken is different, in a good way. "What can I say? Cream, yogurt, ginger, garlic, spices," he offers.

What spices?

"Secret," he says.

Whatever secret the butter chicken holds, it sells out daily, which might explain why lunch starts at about 11 a.m.

The food here is simple and good but the attraction is the $6 price charged for most dishes. Meals include rice, salad, raita, chutney and a pappadum. Add a naan and a mango shake, make that $9.50. The menu includes chicken masala, spinach chicken, lamb masala, lamb vindaloo, beef vindaloo, samosas and veggie balls and there is a special dish for each day of the week.

Many customers at India Abroad are regulars and Singh understands their cravings. If diners want to switch things up and get a combo plate of say, half butter chicken and half beef vindaloo, that can be done.

Singh's straightforward and appetizing meals show that fast food isn't always deserving of the abuse it takes.

- INDIA ABROAD

International Food Fair, 530 Hornby St., 604-684-6047.

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone.

© The Vancouver Sun 2008